Sunday, November 23, 2014

Ackermann's Fashion Month ~ Sunday - October 1810

Good Sunday morning. Today we are looking at October 1810.

FASHION FOR LADIES




PLATE 23. – A MORNING DRESS OR COSTUME A LA DEVOTION
            A plain cambric high gown, with surplice sleeves, and Vandyke border round the throat. A Spanish robe of pea-green muslin, crape, or sarsnet, bordered with cable trimming, and buttoned to the shape in front. A winged mob cap, composed of white crape and beading. A bee-hive bonnet of fine moss or plaited straw, ornamented with white sarsnet ribbon. Limeric gloves, and Spanish slippers of sea-green kid.


PLATE 24. – PROMENADE, OR SEA-BEACH COSTUME
            First figure. – A Grecian wrap gown, with high Armenian collar, bordered with treble rows of narrow muslin, or with three rows of appliquéd beading. An Egyptian tunic of pink or lilac, shot sarsnet, ornamented up the front with silk cord and buttons; round the bosom and cuffs to correspond. A hamlet hat of white imperial chip or straw, tied across the crown with white or lemon-coloured ribbon. A foundling cap of lace, exhibited in front, ornamented with corn-flowers. Pale tan gloves, and shoes the colour of the pelisse.


            Second figure. – A white muslin robe, with biased bosom, formed of French net; a high rounded collar, sitting close to the throat, and finished with double plaiting of net; a sash of amber shot ribbon tied on the left side. A Circassian mantle of fine India muslin, with deep border of needle-work or lace. Head-dress composed of a square veil of lace, fancifully disposed over the hair, and confined with a broach in center of the forehead. York tan gloves, and Roman slippers of amber-coloured kid.

Saturday, November 22, 2014

Ackermann’s Fashion Month ~ Saturday – September 1810

Today we look at the fashion plates from September 1810

FASHION FOR LADIES


PLATE 17. – FULL DRESS
            A French gored gown of celestial blue crape, over a white gossamer satin slip; stomacher front, laced and edged with silver cord; long Spanish slashed sleeves, appliquéd with white satin, and edged with silver cord; antique laced cuffs, and neck-handkerchief of French net, with deep fan frill. Hair confined in the Eastern style with pearl of diamond comb, falling in ringlets on each side of the face, divided in front of the forehead with correspondent bandeau, Neck-chain and cross of dead gold filigree. Sicilian mantle of white satin, finished with silver tassels, thrown fancifully over the back and shoulders. Slippers of white satin, laced with front with silver cord. Gloves of white French kid; and fan of white crape, with silver jessamine border.


PLATE 18. – PROMENADE COSTUME
            First figure, represented in an Andalusian robe of superfine Spanish lamb’s-wool cloth, of a bright amber colour; long sleeves and high-shirt of French cambric, with deep cuff and collar, edged with plaited net, or scalloped lace; bosom of the robe laced with white silk cord, and continned down the front with a row of correspondent buttons in the center. An installation cap of green velvet, edged with broad gold lace. A white veil, open in front. Shoes of green kid or jean, and gloves of the same colour.


            Second figure. – A plain cambric petticoat and Roman tunic, buttoned down the front, and trimmed at the bottom with a border of gathered muslin; plain high bosom, with rounded collar; long sleeve, gaged at regular distances, and finished with Armenian cuff. A naval scarf of Indian muslin, or royal purple silk. A hamlet hat of white chip, ornamented with purple ribbon, worn over the peasant’s cap of lace. Purple kid shoes, and gloves of York tan. Parasol to correspond.

Friday, November 21, 2014

Ackermann's Fashion Month ~ Friday - August 1810

I’m on top of things today and hopefully for the next few days. We stroll into August 1810 today.

FASHION FOR LADIES




PLATE 11. – PROMENADE OR BEACH COSTUME
            A cambric Indian muslin frock, with long sleeves, Spanish cuffs, and high front and collar, trimmed with double plaitings of French net. An Arabian vest, or tunic coat, of apple-green crape, trimmed round the bottom with two rows of violet floss binding, and tied down the front, at regular distances, with bows and ends of violet-coloured ribbon. Woodland bonnet of straw, or primrose chip, ornamented with violet-coloured ribbon. Slippers of green kid. Parasol of green Chinese silk, with deep awning. Gloves or primrose kid.



PLATE 12. – MORNING DRESS
            A white robe of French cambric or jaconot muslin, buttoned in front from the throat to the feet; German cape, and antique cuffs, edged with Vandyke lace. A plain muslin short pelisse, trimmed with the same. Cottage cap of lace, decorated on one side with a French bow and ends of violet-coloured ribbon, and tied across the crown and under the chin with a silk handkerchief of a lemon colour. Hair in dishevelled curls. Lemon-coloured kid slippers and gloves.

CHILD’S DRESS

A highland jacket and trowers, with cambric plaited tucker; slippers of purple or black kid.

Thursday, November 20, 2014

Ackermann's Fashion Month ~ Thursday - July 1810

I’m running very late today. I honestly don’t know where the time goes. Anyway, today I’m looking at the fashion plates from the July 1810 edition of the Repository of Arts.

FASHION FOR LADIES AND GENTLEMEN



PLATE 4. – A BALL DRESS
A pink gossamer satin slip, with Grecian frock of white Persian gause, or undrest Italian crape; united up the front and round the bottom with silver filigree buttons and chain. The bottom trimmed with a deep Vandyke lace, and finished at the feet with the same; Spanish slash sleeve, confined with silver filigree buttons and cord. Hair à la Grecque, confined with a pearl comb; the curls parted on the forehead by the introduction of a bunch of Persian roses. Necklace, bracelets, and ear-rings of pearl. Shoes of white satin, spotted with pink foil. Gloves of French kid, below the elbow. Fan with crape, with Egyptian characters in silver.

PLATE 5. – THREE PROMENADE, OR KENSINGTON GARDEN FIGURES.

            First Figure. – A Spanish pelisse of white and lilac shot sarsnet, with Egyptian crape and antique cuffs, trimmed with Chinese scalloped binding, ornamented up the front with the same, and untied with correspondent buttons. A woodland hat of lemon-coloured chip, with curled ostrich feather, lilac and white, dropping towards the left side. Figured lemon-coloured slippers’ lemon-coloured kid gloves; gold neck-chain and broach; ridicule of painted velvet.

            Second Figure. – A round morning dress of white muslin, with appliquéd lace round the bottom; bosom and sleeves ornamented with the same. A unella veil and cloak of superfine black black French lace. Half-boots of blossom-coloured kid, laced with white. Blossom-coloured parasol, with Chinese awning.

            Third Figure. – A white cambric mornig wrap, edged with lace or needle-work. A spencer cloak, with military front and collar, composed of cornelian blue shot sarsnet, ornamented with slk basket buttons, and braids to correspond. A helmet mob cap, formed of the same material, interspersed with joining lace, and edged round the face with antique lace. Blue parasol, and half-boots of blue kid, bound and laced with black.

FASHION FOR GENTLEMEN

The mode of dress has not changed materially from the last month. The coats are cut in the skirts much narrower, and not so long in the waist, with collars long, and stand off; the back to the hips much narrower. Pantaloon and gaiters all in one, of nankeen, Buff waistcoats with yellow buttons, and blue coats, are the most prevailing colours. 

Wednesday, November 19, 2014

Ackermann's Fashion Month ~ Wednesday - June 1810

Today’s Fashion Plates come from the June 1810 edition of Ackermann’s Repository.

FASHION FOR LADIES



PLATE 37. – WALKING OR CARRIAGE COSTUME.
A round high robe of French cambric, with Armenian collar, and cuffs edged with narrow antique lace; three rows of appliquéd lace beading round the bottom. An Egyptian mantle of lilac shot saesnet, trimmed with broad Spanish binding, and deep thread lace. A Parisian bonnet of the same material, ornamented with narrow stripes of white satin ribbon, and trimmed at the edge with lace, or a plaiting of French net. A small French cap, and flowers appearing in front of the forehead. Chinese parasol, with deep awing of white silk. Ridicule to correspond. Lilac kid slippers or half-boots. York gloves.
Child’s dress of nankeen or buff kerseymere, of the Highland order.


PLATE 38. – EVENING OR FULL DRESS
            A round robe, with long sleeves, and demi-traine of white gossamer satin, or white crape, over pink satin slip. The Maria Louisa pelerine of the most delicate French net, trimmed round with a broad lace, and confined in the center of the bosom with a broach of pink topaz, set round with brilliants. A deep ruffle at the wrist, of lace similar to the tippet. Hair confined from the roots behind, and fastened with a Persian pin of diamonds, flowing in front, and on the side, in blended curls and ringlets: a diamond tulip or crescent in front. Necklace, ear-rings, and bracelets to correspond. Roman slippers of white kid, with silver clasps and binding. An occasional scarf of buff or purple silk, with variegated border and ends. Gloves of white French kid, and opera fan of carved ivory.

SECOND FIGURE

            A white crape, leno, or net frock, over a blue sarsuet slip; short sleeve, rather full; the bosom and bottom of the sleeve furnished with a border of small blue roses; the bottom of the frock edged with scalloped lace: the eagle’s paw clasp of silver confines the extremity of the waist. The ornaments are pearl, and the shoes white satin.

Tuesday, November 18, 2014

Ackermann’s Fashion Month ~ Tuesday – May 1810

Today we look at the fashion in May 1810 edition of Ackermann’s Repository of Arts.


FASHION FOR WOMEN




PLATE 32. -  PROMENADE COSTUME IN THE EGYPTIAN STYLE
            An Arabian tunic and petticoat of fine white cambric, sitting high round the throat, with appliquéd net, in the crescent form; robin stomacher, and Egyptian border round the bottom. Armenian hat, composed of short amber sarsnet, with white floss binding and cord. Grecian scarf of the same colour, with rich brocade ends. Half-boots of amber-coloured kid or silk, the same as the hat. Gloves of York tan or buff kid.






PLATE 33. – PROMENADE OR OPERA DRESS

            A round robe of jaconot muslin, with high French ruff, and appliquéd border of narrow lace round the feet. A cassock coat or demi pelisse of cerulean blue shot sarsnet, finished round the bosom with basket border, extended on white satin, confined at the bottom of the waist with silver or steel clasp, and to the bottom with three regular, divided silk cords and tassels. An Austrian tippet of white satin, with full floss binding, and tassels to correspond. Arcadian hat, composed of the same material as the coat, and ornamented with full curled white feathers. The hair in ringlet curls, with caul of white or amber net; a small spring flower is occasionally added. Half-boots and parasol of cornelian blue en suite. Gloves of lemon-coloured kid.

Monday, November 17, 2014

Ackermann’s Fashion Month ~ Monday – April 1810

A new week for Ackermann’s Fashion. Today we look into the Repository of Arts for April 1810.

FASHION FOR LADIES AND GENTLEMEN

PLATE 25. – A GROUP OF FEMALE FIGURES IN EVENING OR OPERA DRESSES
The erect figure represents a female in a robe à la Russe, of spring green velvet, with appliquéd stomacher and slashed long sleeves of white satin, ornamented with pearl. A Mirza turban of frosted satin, with large pearl crescent in front. White satin mantle, trimmed with gossamer down, and confined in front of the throat with diamond broach, Diamond necklace and ear-rings, White satin slippers, laced and bound with silver. White kid gloves, and fan of carved ivory.

SITTING FIGURE
A white satin slip à Pantique; trimmed with gothic lace; long sleeve. Full at the top, with cuffs to correspond with the style of the dress. Laces stomacher front, peaked both behind and before at the bottom of the waist. Hair in the eastern style, confined with a comb ornamented with pink topaz, and flowing in loose irregular curls over the bands in front. Ear-rings and necklace of pink topaz. Pink satin slippers, with silver gothic clasps. White crape fan, wrought in silver jessamine.

FIGURE IN THE SHADE
            A Grecian frock of aurora gause, worn over white satin, laced from the bosom to the feet with silver. A nun’s veil of gossamer net lace, thrown over a head-dress, consisting of a bandeau, confining the hair, which appears beneath in dishevelled curls.



PLATE 26. – FASHION FOR GENTLEMEN
            Full dress. – Superfine corbeau coloured coat, with covered buttons; white marcella waistcoat, single breasted; light sage green, or cream-coloured kerseymere breeches; also those of black florentine silk are very fashionable and consistent in this style of dress. Dark blue coats, with plain gilt buttons, are likewise considered fashionable. The cravat is still worn high and full.

MORNING DRESS consist chiefly of dark-coloured mixed coats, with long waits, and narrow lappels and collars: the coat cut very high in the neck. Double-breasted striped waistcoats, formed of various materials, such as marcellas, buff kerseymere, &c. Ribbed kerseymere breeches, with high-topped boots; also plain stocking pantaloons, with half-boots. Pearl buttons are fashionable appendage to this style of male costume.



Sunday, November 16, 2014

Ackermann’s Fashion Month ~ Sunday – March 1810

Today’s post comes from the March 1810 edition of Ackermann’s Repository of Arts.

FASHION FOR LADIES





PLATE 17. – BALL DRESS
            A plain slip of white gossamer satin, with short sleeves and square bosom. A Circassian robe of brown silk net, the meshes terminated with white or gold beads; edging and tassels of the same. Head-dress, á la Diana, of pearl; necklace, armlets, &c. &c. of the same. Slippers of white satin, with gold clasps and bindings. French kid gloves below the elbow. Fan of white crape, with gold Persian border.










PLATE 18. – MORNING COSTUME

            A morning robe of spotted of flowered Moravian muslin, with high-winged collar, edged with scalloped lace. Bosom formed of alternate stripes of lace and muslin.  A matron hood of lace, tied across the crown with grey ribbon. Morning slippers of grey kid, trimmed with swandown. An occasional scarf of French silk, with rich flowered border and ends.

Saturday, November 15, 2014

Ackermann's Fashion Month ~ Saturday - February 1810

I'm running a tad late today. The Fashion for Ladies and gentlemen come from the February 1810 edition of Ackermann's Repository of Arts.

FASHION FOR LADIES AND GENTLEMEN




PLATE 10. – EVENING OR FULL DRESS
A purple velvet round robe, with demi-traine and long sleeves; bordered round the bottom; bosom and wrists with narrow gold lace. A Spanish hat, composed of purple silk or velvet, the same as the robe, looped up the front with brilliants, and ornamented with curled ostrich feathers. A capuchin cloak of white satin, trimmed entirely round with full swandown. Diamond chain and cross; drop ear-rings and bracelets of the same; gold chain and opera glass. Grecian slippers of white satin, trimmed with silver.





PLATE 11. – OPERA DRESS
            A round robe of white or coloured crape, imperial net, or muslin, with white satin bodice, trimmed with gold or silver, or a border of small flowers. A wrapping mantle of fawn-coloured satin, trimmed entirely round with swandown. Necklace, ear-rings, and bracelets of pearl. Hair in dishevelled curls, confined with diamond comb, and ornamented with Persian wreath of blended pearl and amethysts. – Slippers of fawn-coloured satin, with silver clasps. Opera fan of carved amber.




FASHION FOR GENTLEMEN

Great-coats. – Great-coats are in general worn of olive, olive brown, dark bottle green superfine cloth, or superfine Bath coating; single breasted, with three or four straps in front; cross-flaps, and the pockets outside, under the latter; a small flap in the plaits, pointed with three buttons; round cuffs; the collar to come up high in the neck and padded; the fall-down collar only an inch and a half deep. The waist is worn long, three inches below the hip-bone, and the skirts must reach to the bottom of the calf.

The leaders of the haut ton appear at the Opera in great-coats edged with Russia lamb-skin, with cuffs, collar, and lappels of the same, and loops in front; made after the Polish fashion, and lined throughout with silk serge.

Morning-coats. – The most fashionable colours for morning-coats are olive, or olive brown, and blue. Like the preceding, they are long-waisted, but must not be longer than two or three inches above the knee, according to the size of the wearer. The lappels come down very low, that is to say, to the hip-button; pockets outside, under the cross-flaps; small (or habit size) plain gilt buttons; five holes in the lappels to button all the way up; French riding sleeves, with three large buttons; the collar to come up high; the fall-down an inch and a quarter deep, according to the height of the collar.

Waistcoats. – The prevailing colours for waistcoats are white, India rib patent green print, buff, with blue or black stripes, wide asunder. They are bound with black or blue silk galloon, double-breasted, with five or six holes, according to the length, to button all the way up.


Pantaloons. – are of blue or drab-coloured stockings, figured. For the breeches, drab colours are in the highest request; they are made to come down low under the knee.

Friday, November 14, 2014

Ackermann's Fashion Month ~ Friday - January 1810

Welcome to today’s Ackermann’s Fashion Plates, January 1810.

FASHION FOR LADIES



PLATE 4. - EVENING DRESS

            An Albanian robe of Sicilian blue velvet, crape, or poplin, with long sleeves, ornamented up the front with silver buttons, of the large pea form, embellished on each side, and round the bottom, with silver Vandyke border; bosom and cuffs to correspond. When this robe is formed of crape, or any light material, it must unquestionably be worn over a white satin or saranet slip. A Persian helmet cap of white satin, or silver-frosted velvet, turned up in front and on one side, where it is ornamented with a Tuscan border of silver; on the other, is placed a curled ostrich feather. The necklace and ear-rings worn with this attractive costume, must either consist of diamonds, pearls, or gold: any coloured gem would immediately vulgarise and destroy its original and chaste effect. The slipper is here represented of the same colour as the robe, and is trimmed with silver: we think, however, that those of white satin or kid are to be preferred.

CHILD’S DRESS

            A Circassian frock of Italian crape, or Indian muslin, with slippers of pink satin or kid, with silver clasps.



PLATE 5. – CARRIAGE OR PROMENADE COSTUME.


            A round cottage gown of fine cambric or jaconot muslin, ornamented at the feet, collar, and wrists with borders of needle-work, or fine fringe. The waist confined at the bottom with a white ribbon, tied in short bows and ends behind. A French watch, chain and seals, in front of figure. A Russian mantle of bright crimson velvet, lined throughout with the spotted American squirrel skin, with broad facings and high collar of the same. The mantle clasped in front of the throat with silver, gold, or steel. The hat worn generally with this attractive mantle, is of the Spanish order, with variegated feather resembling the fur, pendant towards one side. We here, however, give the Siberian cap, composed of the same material, and trimmed with skin, the same as ornaments the mantle, and as selected by the elegant and distinguished female to whom we are indebted for this specimen of superior taste. The boots, it will be seen, are of crimson velvet, laced with gold cord. This mantle and cap are exceedingly elegant, when composed of emeraldgreen velvet, trimmed with leopard skin. It is furnished by Miss Millman, of Half-Moon-street, Piccadilly. 

Thursday, November 13, 2014

Ackermann's Fashion Month ~ Thursday - December 1809

Today we look at the last month of 1809.

FASHION FOR LADIES



PLATE 37. – A TYROLESE WALKING DRESS

            A fine cambric or jaconot muslin round robe, with long plaited sleeves, and worked antique front; bordered at the feet with needle-work or appliquéd lace. Elastic belt, confined behind with a bow and ends of ribbon. A plain shirt, with high collar, sitting close to the throat, and trimmed at the extreme edge with a plaiting of French net. A rosary and cross of blended gold and amber. A Tyrolese coat of shaded green, or drake’s-neck velvet, lined throughout with amber sarsnet, and trimmed with gold or Chinese floss binding. The Amazonian helmet, composed of the same materials, ornamented with a patriotic band and bow, towards one side; a curled ostrich feather, tipped with gold, on the other. Slippers of amber velvet, with black binding and rosettes. Gloves of York tan.






PLATE 38. – EVENING DRESS


            A white satin round robe, with demi-traine. A short sleeve of interjoined lace and gold beading. A military front, composed of gold cord and frogs. A pelerine of white satin, with full collar, and border of swandown, and a rich cord and tassel of gold. A Grecian coif of white satin, with appliquéd border of lace, and band and crecent of pearl. A long sleeve, of French lace; or a glove, of French kid; with bracelets and necklace of pearl. Crimson slippers, with gold imperial trimming. Ivory fan, mount of crimson crape, ornamented with a border of gold jessamine.

Wednesday, November 12, 2014

Ackermann's Fashion Month ~ Wednesday - November 1809

Today we are looking at the Fashion Plates from November 1809

FASHION FOR LADIES




PLATE 30. – MORNING DRESS

            A high morning robe of fine jaconot, or cambric muslin, buttoned from the throat to the feet; high fluted collar, edged with lace, and clasped in the center with a topaz, or other gem. A Chinese girdle and tassel confines the bottom of the waist, and is tied in the front, so as to reach a little below the knee. A loose morning robe, or pelisse, of white muslin, green shawl print, or jubilee sarsnet, trimmed entirely round with a correspondent border. Silver filigree bracelets, with topaz studs. A matron mob, or cap of point lace. Ornamented with shaded yellow, or lemon-coloured ribbon. Gloves and slippers of lemon-coloured kid. – Infant’s robe, of yellow muslin, over a fine soft cambric skirt.





PLATE 31. – MORNING WALKING DRESS


            A petticoat and Roman tunic of fine thin cambric, long sleeves, and high collar, interjoined and trimmed with lace; the tunic finished at the bottom with a border of fret-work. A jubilee cloak of bright amber velvet, or shaded gold-coloured sarsnet, trimmed entirely round with swandown, and confined at the center of the throat with a rich cord and tassels of blended silk and gold. The cottager’s hat, of imperial-coloured straw, tied simply under the chin with a white ribbon. Parasol, gloves, and shoes, of correspondent shades with the hat.

Tuesday, November 11, 2014

Ackermann's Fashion Month ~ Tuesday - October 1809

Today sees us visiting October 1809 Ackeremann’s Fashion Plates.

FASHION FOR LADIES



PLATE 24. – A BALL DRESS

A LIGHT blue, or grey chemise robe, of gossamer net, imperial crape, or Spanish gauze, worn over white pearling satin, ornamented up the front with French bows and knots of silver. A full melon sleeve, formed of the same material as the dress, and alternate stripes of white satin; finished with bows and knots of silver. A double roll of white satin round the neck of the robe, by way of tucker. Hair falling in natural and irregular curls on the forehead; confined in a bow and curled ends, or in plaited braids, at the back of the head, with a diamond comb. Diamond bandeau, with necklace, armlets, and drop ear-rings of the same. Slippers of white satin with silver clasps. French kis gloves, just escaping the elbow. Fan of carved ivory.






PLATE 25. – WALKING DRESS

             A fine cambric or Indian muslin high gown, with long sleeves and falling collar, ornamented at the feet, and round the neck, with appliquéd lace or needle-work. Deep amber broach, or gold filigree buckle, confining the dress at the throat and waist, with bracelets en suite. Gold chain and opera glass. The woodland hat of fine plaited straw or chip, with ostrich feather falling on one side. A French cloak of bright purple sarsnet or velvet, lined with amber or rose colour, and trimmed entirely round with broad black lace and beading. Purple parasol, with deep white or amber awning. Shoes and gloves of buff kid.


N.B. There is no change in gentlemen’s dresses since our last.

Monday, November 10, 2014

Ackermann's Fashion Month ~ Monday - September 1809

Welcome to a new week of Ackermann’s Fashion Plates. Today we look into the September 1809 edition of the Repository.

FASHION FOR LADIES AND GENTLEMEN

PLATE 17. A MOURNING DRESS

            As many of our discerning and tasteful correspondents have hinted to us the utility of occasionally presenting them with a mourning, we take advantage of the present period to comply with their wishes. Fashion and novelty seem at this moment to require from their votaries a cessation from their general labours, and individual taste and invention are left to spot as pleasure in that elegant simplicity of attire which at this season takes place. Of the splendid decoration which distinguishes the more brilliant parties of the metropolis.

            Our plate will be found to represent a lady and her infant in slight mourning habits: the former composed of black gossamer net, or imperial gauze, worn over a white satin slip. A demi-traine. A round frock in front, and short French sleeves, each edged with a rich Vandyke lace. A cestus of white satin, edged with gold bullion, finished in front with a rich cord and cone tassels, suspended from topaz studs. Pearl necklace and bracelets, with topaz snaps. Hair in the eastern style, with Spartan diadem, and comb to topaz or gold. A Cireassian scarf of grey Spanish silk, with a Tuscan border in black embroidery, a tassel to correspond; confined on one shoulder with a topaz broach. Shoes of grey satin, with clasps of jet, or rosettes of black bugles. White gloves of French kid; and fan of black crape, with gold spangled device.

            In deep mourning, this robe should be formed of black crape, and worn over black sarsnet. The ornaments and trimmings of every description must be of bugles or jet. The shoes of queen’s silk. The scarf, black crape or imperial silk, spotted and bordered with bugles. Jet tassels and broach.

            The child’s dress is a simple frock of black crape muslin, tucked small, and worn over a cambric skirt. A plain net-lace tucker, and cap en suite. Grey kid slippers, with black claps.



PLATE 18. – PROMENADE SEA-BEACH COSTUME.

            A Gresian frock of fine French cambric or jaconot muslin, with correspondent border at the feet, in shades purple embroidery; Roman back and front of the same. Full long sleeves, with turned-up cuff of lace; fastened with bronze stud, set in gold. A Flemish bonnet, of fine plaited or variegated straw, tied under the chin with purple corded ribbon. An ostrich feather, tipped with purple, falling on the left side. A rich habit-shirt, formed of fine India muslin (or net) and lace. A marine scarf, ot purple Spanish silk, with rich ends, and border of happily contrasted shades, thrown over the figure in true Grecian elegance. Chinese parasol, of purple silk, with deep white awning. Shoes and gloves of lemon-coloured kid.




FASHION FOR GENTLEMEN
Morning or Walking Dress

            Dark blue and hare-back mixture are the fashionable colours of the day. Long waists still keep their ground: lapels long in proportion, with only four, or, at the utmost, five, large gilt buttons: short skirt – collar high, to stand off – low in front – sleeves long – flap with three buttons, and the same number in the plaits. Silk-striped quilting, or Marcella double-breasted waist-coat. Drab-coloured kerseymere breeches. Stocking pantaloons and half-boots. Nankeen trowers and gaiters, or kerseymere pantaloons and gaiters in one.



  

Sunday, November 9, 2014

Ackermann’s Fashion Week ~ Sunday - August 1809

This was to be my last post for Ackermann’s Fashion week, but I have decided to extend it to the end of the month. Today we are looking at fashion from the August 1809 issue.

FASHIONS FOR LADIES

PLATE 11.- WALKING COSTUME
A Vestal robe of the finest India muslin or cambric, with a border of lace or needle-work round the feet, and continued up the front. An Austrian spencer, with Carmelite hood, composed of white or silver-grey satin, or of Paris net with an appliquéd border of French lace or Chinese trimming, confined at the throat with a silk cord and tassel. A cornelian cross, suspended from gold elastic chain. French watch, worn on the outside of the robe; the seals disposed in the center of the bosom, by way of broach. Parasol corresponding with the spencer. Soes and gloves of lemon-coloured kid.

CHILD’S DRESS
            A frock of fine cambric, with small tucks round the bottom. An Andalusian cosaque, or short coat, of the same, ornamented with a jonquille, or lemon-coloured border. A long silk throat-scarf of the same colour, tied loosely at the bosom, and finished with rich tassels. A Spanish hat of imperial chip, or plaited straw. Gloves and slippers the same colour as the scarf.

PLATE 12.- PROMENADE DRESSES.
            No.1. – A petticoat of camdric, bordered with needle-work at the bottom. An Egyptian vest of the same colour, with correspondent border, in primrose or straw colour. Drawn tucker of French lace, finished at each edge with the same style of border. A provincial bonnet of fine moss or satin straw, ornamented with a cluster of the double stock in front. Austrian scarf, of light blue sarsnet, tastefully disposed across the back and shoulders; the ends finished with gold or silver tassels. Shoes and parasol to correspond with the scarf. Gloves of York tan.


            No. 2.- A cambric petticoat, richly bordered at the feet in needle-work and Vandyke lace. An Andalusian cosaque of shot sarsnet, edged round the bosom, and at the feet and wrists, with the same, and tied down the front with bows, and ends of white silk cord. A convent veil, of French lace, thrown back, so as to display the hair in front, which appears divided on the forehead, and flowing in irregular ringlets on each side of the face. Opera glass, with gold Venetian chain. Parasol and slippers corresponding with the coat. Gloves of lemon-coloured kid.

Saturday, November 8, 2014

Ackermann's Fashion Week ~ Saturday - July 1809


Today's fashions come from the July 1809 edition of  Ackermann's Repository.

FASHIONS FOR LADIES AND GENTLEMEN

PLATE 4.- OPERA DRESS

            A round convent robe of Egyptian brown tissue, worn over a white satin under-dress, ornamented at the feet, and round the bosom and sleeves, with a broad antique lace, put on rather full, and brought to the narrowest dimensions in front of the bosom. White satin appliquéd stomacher, embellished with gold lattice-work, and continued in a straight line down the front of the robe to the feet. Head-dress, a gold net caul, inclosing the hair behind, and finished in front with a Mechlin veil of uncommon delicacy, disposed in graceful negligence, so as to display the hair on the forehead, and falling over the left shoulder. Necklace and armlets composed of a single row of fine Bohemian pearls, with topaz or diamond snaps. A Grecian scarf of rich Andalusian silk, happily contrasted with the colour of the robe, and wrought at the ends in a deep Tuscan border of gold or coloured silks. White satin slippers, trimmed with brown foil or gold. Gloves of French kid. Opera fan of white crape, decorated with a border of jessamine.


PLATE 5.- PROMENADE DRESS

            A round high frock of fine French cambric, or the most delicate plain muslin, trimmed at the feet, wrists, and throat, with a fine Vandyke lace; the bosom formed in alternate stripes of footing lace and needlework. A Tyrolese cloak, of shaded lilac sarsnet, edged with Venetian binding, and terminate with a trimming of broad white lace, put on full. A double frill of the same round the throat, clasped in front with silver or cut steel. The hair dressed compact, in Grecian style. A veil á la Maltese, of the most transparent texture, edged in rich Vandykes, is thrown with simple elegance over the whole, softening the countenance which it partially displays. Sometimes the head is covered with a small French cap of silk, the same as the cloak, or of a well-contrasted colour. Parasol to correspond with the cloak, with deep white Chinese awning. Slippers of the same, or of lemon coloured kid. Gloves, Limerick or York tan.



FASHION FOR GENTLEMEN
Full Dress
            The most fashionable colours for coats are olive green, dark blue, and black, with covered buttons, long waists, broad at the bottom and short at the skirts, double breasted, with pointed lapels, corresponding in length with the hip buttons. The collar is worn high behind, and to come down low in front. Sleeves long, with round cuffs, and pockets under the flaps. White Marcella waistcoats, and light-coloured single cassimere breeches, worn long.

Morning or Walking Dress
            Mixed, bottle-green, Vandyke brown, and Spanish blue are the most prevailing colours for morning coats. They are made in every respect the same as the dress coats, except that they have gilt basket buttons, sleeves with slits and three buttons, and pockets in the plaits of the skirts. Waistcoats, shawl pattern and various striped marcellas; light-coloured double-milled cassimere pantaloons and half-boots, or nankeen trowsers and gaiters.


            We must not omit noticing this place an ingenious article just invented, called Key’s travelling waistcoat, which by folding answers the purpose of two waistcoats. It may be made either single or double-breasted, and of any article.