Ackermann’s Fashion Week ~ Sunday - August 1809

This was to be my last post for Ackermann’s Fashion week, but I have decided to extend it to the end of the month. Today we are looking at fashion from the August 1809 issue.

FASHIONS FOR LADIES

PLATE 11.- WALKING COSTUME

A Vestal robe of the finest India muslin or cambric, with a border of lace or needle-work round the feet, and continued up the front. An Austrian spencer, with Carmelite hood, composed of white or silver-grey satin, or of Paris net with an appliquéd border of French lace or Chinese trimming, confined at the throat with a silk cord and tassel. A cornelian cross, suspended from gold elastic chain. French watch, worn on the outside of the robe; the seals disposed in the center of the bosom, by way of broach. Parasol corresponding with the spencer. Soes and gloves of lemon-coloured kid.

CHILD’S DRESS

            A frock of fine cambric, with small tucks round the bottom. An Andalusian cosaque, or short coat, of the same, ornamented with a jonquille, or lemon-coloured border. A long silk throat-scarf of the same colour, tied loosely at the bosom, and finished with rich tassels. A Spanish hat of imperial chip, or plaited straw. Gloves and slippers the same colour as the scarf.

PLATE 12.- PROMENADE DRESSES.

            No.1. – A petticoat of camdric, bordered with needle-work at the bottom. An Egyptian vest of the same colour, with correspondent border, in primrose or straw colour. Drawn tucker of French lace, finished at each edge with the same style of border. A provincial bonnet of fine moss or satin straw, ornamented with a cluster of the double stock in front. Austrian scarf, of light blue sarsnet, tastefully disposed across the back and shoulders; the ends finished with gold or silver tassels. Shoes and parasol to correspond with the scarf. Gloves of York tan.

            No. 2.- A cambric petticoat, richly bordered at the feet in needle-work and Vandyke lace. An Andalusian cosaque of shot sarsnet, edged round the bosom, and at the feet and wrists, with the same, and tied down the front with bows, and ends of white silk cord. A convent veil, of French lace, thrown back, so as to display the hair in front, which appears divided on the forehead, and flowing in irregular ringlets on each side of the face. Opera glass, with gold Venetian chain. Parasol and slippers corresponding with the coat. Gloves of lemon-coloured kid.

Ackermann's Fashion Week ~ Saturday - July 1809

Today's fashions come from the July 1809 edition of  Ackermann's Repository.

FASHIONS FOR LADIES AND GENTLEMEN

PLATE 4.- OPERA DRESS

            A round convent robe of Egyptian brown tissue, worn over a white satin under-dress, ornamented at the feet, and round the bosom and sleeves, with a broad antique lace, put on rather full, and brought to the narrowest dimensions in front of the bosom. White satin appliquéd stomacher, embellished with gold lattice-work, and continued in a straight line down the front of the robe to the feet. Head-dress, a gold net caul, inclosing the hair behind, and finished in front with a Mechlin veil of uncommon delicacy, disposed in graceful negligence, so as to display the hair on the forehead, and falling over the left shoulder. Necklace and armlets composed of a single row of fine Bohemian pearls, with topaz or diamond snaps. A Grecian scarf of rich Andalusian silk, happily contrasted with the colour of the robe, and wrought at the ends in a deep Tuscan border of gold or coloured silks. White satin slippers, trimmed with brown foil or gold. Gloves of French kid. Opera fan of white crape, decorated with a border of jessamine.

PLATE 5.- PROMENADE DRESS

            A round high frock of fine French cambric, or the most delicate plain muslin, trimmed at the feet, wrists, and throat, with a fine Vandyke lace; the bosom formed in alternate stripes of footing lace and needlework. A Tyrolese cloak, of shaded lilac sarsnet, edged with Venetian binding, and terminate with a trimming of broad white lace, put on full. A double frill of the same round the throat, clasped in front with silver or cut steel. The hair dressed compact, in Grecian style. A veil á la Maltese, of the most transparent texture, edged in rich Vandykes, is thrown with simple elegance over the whole, softening the countenance which it partially displays. Sometimes the head is covered with a small French cap of silk, the same as the cloak, or of a well-contrasted colour. Parasol to correspond with the cloak, with deep white Chinese awning. Slippers of the same, or of lemon coloured kid. Gloves, Limerick or York tan.

FASHION FOR GENTLEMEN

Full Dress

            The most fashionable colours for coats are olive green, dark blue, and black, with covered buttons, long waists, broad at the bottom and short at the skirts, double breasted, with pointed lapels, corresponding in length with the hip buttons. The collar is worn high behind, and to come down low in front. Sleeves long, with round cuffs, and pockets under the flaps. White Marcella waistcoats, and light-coloured single cassimere breeches, worn long.

Morning or Walking Dress

            Mixed, bottle-green, Vandyke brown, and Spanish blue are the most prevailing colours for morning coats. They are made in every respect the same as the dress coats, except that they have gilt basket buttons, sleeves with slits and three buttons, and pockets in the plaits of the skirts. Waistcoats, shawl pattern and various striped marcellas; light-coloured double-milled cassimere pantaloons and half-boots, or nankeen trowsers and gaiters.

            We must not omit noticing this place an ingenious article just invented, called Key’s travelling waistcoat, which by folding answers the purpose of two waistcoats. It may be made either single or double-breasted, and of any article.

Ackermann’s Fashion Week ~ Friday - June 1809

As seems to be my habit this week I am running late again with my post. Today's post comes from the June 1809 edition of Ackermann's Repository.

FASHIONS FOR LADIES AND GENTLEMEN

PLATE 28. – WALKING DRESS

Standing Figure, - A Venetian spencer of violet satin, or sarsnet, with a row of small round buttons embroidered in silver; with a pendant loop to each; confined at the neck with a silk cord or silver tassel. Beaver hat of the same colour, rather small, turned up in front, with a silver button and loop. Worked muslin dress and skirt, to shew the feet and ankles. Black silk slipper and York tan gloves.

Sitting figure, - Muslin under-dress, with full loose sleeves; a Tunic á l’antiqure of yellow crape, trimmed with broad lace round the bottom; yellow silk head-dress, with short veil. Purple mantle, lined with white. York tan gloves.

CHILD’S DRESS.

             Swedish coat of grey cloth or silk, clasped down the front with silver ornaments; short open sleeves. Hat of same colour, turned up with silver loop.

PLATE 29. – PROMENADE DRESS

            Spotted muslin under-dress, over which a light coal, bordered with cerulean blue. Blue silk head-dress, bound round with silver cords and tassels. Blur silk scarf, lined with white; silver border and tassels. White shoes edged with blue. York tan gloves.

GENERAL OBSERVATION

            The Gothic taste, which the introduction of the Spanish costume seemed likely to revive, has now completely given place to the simple and more elegant forms of Grecian antiquity. The long waist, that merciless destroyer of every thing that is beautiful, must be no more known or thought of. The wasp-like division of the human form, which this monstrous fashion produces, is perfectly irreconcilable with antique simplicity.

            Shawls are much worn; they are admirably adapted to the promenade, as they afford, in the throw and arrangement, such fine opportunities for display of the wearer’s taste.

            Silk head-dresses, á l’antiqure, with short veils, are most in request for the promenade; straw hats and bonnets are worn, but not so generally.

            To Mr. Thomas Hope’s recent publication on Ancient Costume, is the late change in dress principally to be attributed:- indeed, to the exertions of this gentleman almost all our modern improvements in taste may be referred. It is hoped the publication alluded to will become the cade-meum and toilet-companion of every lady distinguished in the circles of fashion.

            I wish it were in my power to report any similar improvement in the adaption of colour to character and complexion. In this essential part of dress, confusion and inconsistency still prevail. It is not unusual to see a lady of a pallid hue render herself ghastly by placing red, pink, or lilac near her face; the fairest complexion is frequently disfigured by brown, green, or red; and the most lovely brunette rended frightful by a dress of light blue or grey. These, and a thousand similar absurdities, constantly occur, and it is to these errors that I would now apply a corrective. – Ambitious that the British fair should be as much superior to other nations, in the taste of their dress, as they are in the beauty of their person, I wish it particularly to be understood, that, though in my character as Arbiter Elegantiarum, I might publish dogma and compel obedience, yet I do not ask assent to the following observation, till my fair readers have taken the advice of their sage and sapient counsellor, looking glass.

            Few colours will look absolutely ill on a fair complexion, provided the checks be tinged with the rosy hue of health. There are, however, some which detract from its natural sweetness. Green and brown are or of the latter class. Light blue, grey, and lilac, of the former. A small quantity of either of these colours, will be found to add to the fairest face, a charm inexpressible.

The brunette must regulate her dress by the contrary rule. She may roam at large through all varieties of res, brown, yellow, green, and olive provided they be kept of a dark or of a negative hue. No light colours, can be admitted with impunity.

The sallow complexion will find advantage from a head-dress, handkerchief, ribbon, or border, of yellowish green or olive; and the pallid hue of sickness, in a fair complexion, will be considerably relieved by a ribbon of the most tender and delicate blue.

Scarlet and pea-green are completely inadmissible; of the latter may at anytime be adopted, it must be only in the smallest quantity. A ribbon or a border is all that can be allowed.

We shall resume this subject on a future occasion.

 Arbiter Elegantiarum

GENTLEMEN’S FASHION

             Dark olive green and bottle-green coats are still much worn, and the season has brought into requisition marcella waistcoats of all descriptions, colours, and patterns: buff, however, is the most prevalent. Nankeen drawers and gaiters are very general for morning dress.

            It is now the haut ton to wear the collar of the coat very high behind, worked round to stand off, and cut very low in front.

Ackermann's Fashion Week ~ Wednesday - May 1809

I’m running late today. Today I look at May’s fashion plates and description of men’s fashion plus the general observation which is rather long.

FASHION FOR LADIES AND GENTLEMEN

PLATE 23. – BALL DRESS.

White satin slip, under a crape dress, made to fit the figure very exactly, cut open in front, and bound all round with white satin ribbon and a row of beads, linked together in front with bands of beads loosely suspended at distances; short sleeves the same. Fan richly spangled. Pearl necklace, with diamond clasp in front; ear-rings and bracelets to suit. White shoes striped in scarlet or blue. Hair in ringlets on the forehead, and lightly turned up behind with a diamond comb. Petticoats very short.

 

PLATE 24. – WALKING DRESS.

            Dress of white Scotia washing silk. Bishop’s mantle of sage or olive-green striped and plain silks, made entirely without seams; border of the same colour. Hat to correspond, and decorated with artificial flowers. Shoes sage or olive green, also to correspond.

GENERAL OBSERVATION.

Spanish hats, which have been worn all the winter. With feathers, for full dress, are now converted into walking hats, substituting flowers instead of feathers. Straw hats and bonnets, ornamented with flowers, and white silk hats, are making their appearance for the season. Light silk mantles, of all colours, are much worn. Spencers, of a beautiful grey, ornamented with silver, not buttoned, but tied loosely at the neck, form a most elegant dress. The Scotia silk, introduced in the last number, is now in great request for dresses, as is also spotted muslin. Colours vary with the taste of the individual; silver grey is unquestionably the most elegant and most fashionable. The attempt to introduce waists has completely failed; they have not, nor will they ever become fashionable. The full dress of this number is the present standard.

I happened to be in a family party of ladies on the evening of the publication of last month’s Repository:  the moment it was introduced. The dresses became the subject of critical animadversion, and the essay attached to them under the title “General Observation,” was read aloud for the entertainment of the company. Various (as many be suppose) were the comments of the fair hearers. I was pleased to find that scarlet was given up to its fate without a pang: the colour, however, was out of fashion and out of season, so that I could not congratulate myself much on the victory. Green, on the contrary, found its admirers and supporters. Green! Cool, lovely, refreshing green! – Green, the universal livery of nature!  These and similar exclamations from the lovely lips of accomplished beauty, made me almost waver in my opinion, and tempted me to recal the anathema pronounced against it. This was not all.

The passage soon occurred in which the writer looks forward to the time when the “dress of the British fair shall be established on the simple and unerring principles of nature.” -  Here the lovely reader made a sudden pause. – “Principles of nature,” she repeated (as if to ascertain whether she had read the author aright), and at the same instant the “principles of nature” was echoed through the room, accompanied by all marks of confused apprehension.  The whole of the passage was repeated – still nothing could be made of it. At length a maiden lady, with a prudish gravity of aspect and contemptuous elevation of nose, observed that, in her opinion, it was mere impudence. – “Nature indeed!” said she. “It would make the ghosts of our grandmothers blush, could they see how much of nature is already exposed – and has this fellow the assurance to which to which for more? For my own part, I was not without the hope of seeing the modish innovation of the present day set aside, and the hoop petticoat, with all its modest and becoming appendages, again introduced into the circles of fashion:- but if this fellow be permitted to go on – really I have not patience to think of it – I will write myself to the Bishop of London, or to the Society for the Suppression of Vice and get a stop to his impudence.

All this, and much more, was I, in my character of incognito, compelled to listen to; and now I again make my appearance, to defend myself from dreadful a charge. I only entreat to be heard out, and I promise that even the fastidious delicacy of “Cælebs” (who is now become the fashionable monitor) shall find nothing to object to in all that has been advanced.

It has been the aim of all nations to convert those garments which the climate renders necessary, into something decorative and ornamental; and as long as the decorations are kept in subordination to the object decorated, they will be in good taste, but no longer; the moment dress become principal, all beauty and consistency is lost. That dress, then, which displays as much of the form as is required by grace, without infringing the laws of modesty – which shall leave the limbs to act with the greatest ease to the wearer, and the most agreeable effect on the eye of the beholder, and admit only such ornaments as will add to, rather than diminish the beauty of the face and figure, may, in strict propriety, be said to be composed upon the principles of nature.

But my limits will not admit of enlarging at present on the idea. I will resume the subject next month, and will endeavour then to lay down some general rules for the adaptation of the colours introduced in dress to the various characters and complexions of the lovely wearers.

AREIETER ELEGANTIARUM.

GENTLEMEN’S FASHION.

            Under this head we have no other alteration to record in the present month, except that leather breeches, of a very deep colour, approaching to brown, and boot, are much worn by gentlemen. It will be recollected, that, in our number for March, we announced the probability of such a change.

Ackermann’s Fashion Week ~ Tuesday - April 1809

Day two of my Fashion Week posts. Today’s post is the Fashion Plates from the April 1809 edition of Ackermann’s Repository.

FASHION FOR LADIES AND GENTLEMEN

PLATE 15. – FULL DRESS

White satin dress, with purple body, and long sleeves slashed at the top; bows of purple ribbon down the front. Mantle of purple, lined with white silk, bordered with gold, and edged with swandown. Gold net cap with white feathers. White shoes, gloves, and fan. Necklace, ear-rings, and other ornaments, of gold.

PLATE 16. – WALKING DRESS

            A tunic of lilac silk, clasped down the front with gold ornaments; a cloak of the same colour attached, so as to untie closely behind, but to fall loose over the shoulders; fixed on the shoulders with golden ornaments; the cloak is lined with white or straw- coloured silk, and ornamented with a border of gold. Bonnet and boots of the same colour. Raised spotted muslin under-dress, with loose sleeves, bound at the arms and wrist. Gold necklace, and York tan gloves.

GENERAL OBSERVATION.

Red cloaks are at length completely abandoned, and we congratulate our lovely readers on their emancipation from the most despotic dress the ever was introduced by the whimsical and arbitrary goddess of fashion. The writer of this article predicted, on their first appearance, that a colour so disadvantageous, to beauty, could never become prevalent. “Let them,” said he, “enwrap themselves with immense blaze of red, it will come to nothing at last.” And so it has turned out: our promenades presented us with an assemblage of pallid and ghastly spectres, who, though “forbidden to tell the secrets of their prison-house,” carried about with them the visible signs to torture, and appeared literally robed in flame.

Pea-green is a colour generally introduced in spring, for what reason we know not, except it be intended to harmonize with the verdure with which, at this season, all nature is beginning to be clothed, through some may doubt whether a notion of harmony ever entered the inventive brain of a fashionable dress-maker. However this may be, we must enter our decided protest against it; and we entreat our fair readers not to adopt a colour so directly in opposition to good tast, and in which no face or form, be it majestic as Juno, or beautiful as Hebe, can ever appear with advantage and effect. Lilac, purple, all the varieties of grey, are open to their choice. If green must be selected, let it be the deep and rich hue of the Spanish fly, rather than that worst and vilest of all colours pea-green.

Mr. Adair’s treaty with the Sublime Porte will doubtless introduce amongst our spring fashion a profusion of Turkish turbans, Janizary jackets, mosque slippers, and a thousand similar whimsicalities; all of which (provided a northern coalition be accomplished) must speedily give way to Russian cloaks, hussar caps, Cossack mantles, Danish robes, &c. &c. So that by the setting in of the dog-days, our ladies will stand a chance of being arrayed in the complete costume of all the shivering nations of the north. Such is the capricious system introduced and acted upon in the empire of the despotic goddess of fashion! When shall the dress of the British fair be established upon the simple and unerring principles of nature; and when shal those principles be adopted as the barometer of good taste? We have not the vanity to promise ourselves the complete accomplishment of those objects, but to that end all our endeavours shall be directed. Nothing shall appear in our pages but what is strictly compatible with good taste, so that while we discover and expose errors, we will not be wanting in our endeavours to point out the remedy.

FASHION FOR GENTLMEN

The prevailing colours for both dress and morning coats, are dark blue, olive, and bottle green, with silver and gilt basket buttons; long waist and short skirt; but upon the whole, the fashionable coat is very short, and must not come lower than within four inches of the knee. The lapels are rather long, and come even with the hip buttons. The collar is made high, thinly padded, and to fall back two inches.

The dress coat has round cuffs without buttons, with pockets under flaps: the morning coat; sleeves with slits, and three large buttons. The sleeves are worn very long.

The waistcoat is single-breasted; flaps, with small regimental skirts; the collar within that coat: it is made of striped Marcella, of various shades, but buff colours ase most fashionable. Breeches, of a light drab colour, made rather long and tight. For pantaloons, the stuffs generally worn are double-milled stocking and Prince of Wales striped kerseymere.