Ackermann's Fashion Month ~ Friday - August 1810

I’m on top of things today and hopefully for the next few days. We stroll into August 1810 today.

FASHION FOR LADIES

PLATE 11. – PROMENADE OR BEACH COSTUME

            A cambric Indian muslin frock, with long sleeves, Spanish cuffs, and high front and collar, trimmed with double plaitings of French net. An Arabian vest, or tunic coat, of apple-green crape, trimmed round the bottom with two rows of violet floss binding, and tied down the front, at regular distances, with bows and ends of violet-coloured ribbon. Woodland bonnet of straw, or primrose chip, ornamented with violet-coloured ribbon. Slippers of green kid. Parasol of green Chinese silk, with deep awning. Gloves or primrose kid.

PLATE 12. – MORNING DRESS

            A white robe of French cambric or jaconot muslin, buttoned in front from the throat to the feet; German cape, and antique cuffs, edged with Vandyke lace. A plain muslin short pelisse, trimmed with the same. Cottage cap of lace, decorated on one side with a French bow and ends of violet-coloured ribbon, and tied across the crown and under the chin with a silk handkerchief of a lemon colour. Hair in dishevelled curls. Lemon-coloured kid slippers and gloves.

CHILD’S DRESS

A highland jacket and trowers, with cambric plaited tucker; slippers of purple or black kid.

Ackermann's Fashion Month ~ Wednesday - June 1810

Today’s Fashion Plates come from the June 1810 edition of Ackermann’s Repository.

FASHION FOR LADIES

PLATE 37. – WALKING OR CARRIAGE COSTUME.

A round high robe of French cambric, with Armenian collar, and cuffs edged with narrow antique lace; three rows of appliquéd lace beading round the bottom. An Egyptian mantle of lilac shot saesnet, trimmed with broad Spanish binding, and deep thread lace. A Parisian bonnet of the same material, ornamented with narrow stripes of white satin ribbon, and trimmed at the edge with lace, or a plaiting of French net. A small French cap, and flowers appearing in front of the forehead. Chinese parasol, with deep awing of white silk. Ridicule to correspond. Lilac kid slippers or half-boots. York gloves.

Child’s dress of nankeen or buff kerseymere, of the Highland order.

PLATE 38. – EVENING OR FULL DRESS

            A round robe, with long sleeves, and demi-traine of white gossamer satin, or white crape, over pink satin slip. The Maria Louisa pelerine of the most delicate French net, trimmed round with a broad lace, and confined in the center of the bosom with a broach of pink topaz, set round with brilliants. A deep ruffle at the wrist, of lace similar to the tippet. Hair confined from the roots behind, and fastened with a Persian pin of diamonds, flowing in front, and on the side, in blended curls and ringlets: a diamond tulip or crescent in front. Necklace, ear-rings, and bracelets to correspond. Roman slippers of white kid, with silver clasps and binding. An occasional scarf of buff or purple silk, with variegated border and ends. Gloves of white French kid, and opera fan of carved ivory.

SECOND FIGURE

            A white crape, leno, or net frock, over a blue sarsuet slip; short sleeve, rather full; the bosom and bottom of the sleeve furnished with a border of small blue roses; the bottom of the frock edged with scalloped lace: the eagle’s paw clasp of silver confines the extremity of the waist. The ornaments are pearl, and the shoes white satin.

Ackermann’s Fashion Week ~ Friday - June 1809

As seems to be my habit this week I am running late again with my post. Today's post comes from the June 1809 edition of Ackermann's Repository.

FASHIONS FOR LADIES AND GENTLEMEN

PLATE 28. – WALKING DRESS

Standing Figure, - A Venetian spencer of violet satin, or sarsnet, with a row of small round buttons embroidered in silver; with a pendant loop to each; confined at the neck with a silk cord or silver tassel. Beaver hat of the same colour, rather small, turned up in front, with a silver button and loop. Worked muslin dress and skirt, to shew the feet and ankles. Black silk slipper and York tan gloves.

Sitting figure, - Muslin under-dress, with full loose sleeves; a Tunic á l’antiqure of yellow crape, trimmed with broad lace round the bottom; yellow silk head-dress, with short veil. Purple mantle, lined with white. York tan gloves.

CHILD’S DRESS.

             Swedish coat of grey cloth or silk, clasped down the front with silver ornaments; short open sleeves. Hat of same colour, turned up with silver loop.

PLATE 29. – PROMENADE DRESS

            Spotted muslin under-dress, over which a light coal, bordered with cerulean blue. Blue silk head-dress, bound round with silver cords and tassels. Blur silk scarf, lined with white; silver border and tassels. White shoes edged with blue. York tan gloves.

GENERAL OBSERVATION

            The Gothic taste, which the introduction of the Spanish costume seemed likely to revive, has now completely given place to the simple and more elegant forms of Grecian antiquity. The long waist, that merciless destroyer of every thing that is beautiful, must be no more known or thought of. The wasp-like division of the human form, which this monstrous fashion produces, is perfectly irreconcilable with antique simplicity.

            Shawls are much worn; they are admirably adapted to the promenade, as they afford, in the throw and arrangement, such fine opportunities for display of the wearer’s taste.

            Silk head-dresses, á l’antiqure, with short veils, are most in request for the promenade; straw hats and bonnets are worn, but not so generally.

            To Mr. Thomas Hope’s recent publication on Ancient Costume, is the late change in dress principally to be attributed:- indeed, to the exertions of this gentleman almost all our modern improvements in taste may be referred. It is hoped the publication alluded to will become the cade-meum and toilet-companion of every lady distinguished in the circles of fashion.

            I wish it were in my power to report any similar improvement in the adaption of colour to character and complexion. In this essential part of dress, confusion and inconsistency still prevail. It is not unusual to see a lady of a pallid hue render herself ghastly by placing red, pink, or lilac near her face; the fairest complexion is frequently disfigured by brown, green, or red; and the most lovely brunette rended frightful by a dress of light blue or grey. These, and a thousand similar absurdities, constantly occur, and it is to these errors that I would now apply a corrective. – Ambitious that the British fair should be as much superior to other nations, in the taste of their dress, as they are in the beauty of their person, I wish it particularly to be understood, that, though in my character as Arbiter Elegantiarum, I might publish dogma and compel obedience, yet I do not ask assent to the following observation, till my fair readers have taken the advice of their sage and sapient counsellor, looking glass.

            Few colours will look absolutely ill on a fair complexion, provided the checks be tinged with the rosy hue of health. There are, however, some which detract from its natural sweetness. Green and brown are or of the latter class. Light blue, grey, and lilac, of the former. A small quantity of either of these colours, will be found to add to the fairest face, a charm inexpressible.

The brunette must regulate her dress by the contrary rule. She may roam at large through all varieties of res, brown, yellow, green, and olive provided they be kept of a dark or of a negative hue. No light colours, can be admitted with impunity.

The sallow complexion will find advantage from a head-dress, handkerchief, ribbon, or border, of yellowish green or olive; and the pallid hue of sickness, in a fair complexion, will be considerably relieved by a ribbon of the most tender and delicate blue.

Scarlet and pea-green are completely inadmissible; of the latter may at anytime be adopted, it must be only in the smallest quantity. A ribbon or a border is all that can be allowed.

We shall resume this subject on a future occasion.

 Arbiter Elegantiarum

GENTLEMEN’S FASHION

             Dark olive green and bottle-green coats are still much worn, and the season has brought into requisition marcella waistcoats of all descriptions, colours, and patterns: buff, however, is the most prevalent. Nankeen drawers and gaiters are very general for morning dress.

            It is now the haut ton to wear the collar of the coat very high behind, worked round to stand off, and cut very low in front.

Ackermann's Fashion Week ~ Wednesday - May 1809

I’m running late today. Today I look at May’s fashion plates and description of men’s fashion plus the general observation which is rather long.

FASHION FOR LADIES AND GENTLEMEN

PLATE 23. – BALL DRESS.

White satin slip, under a crape dress, made to fit the figure very exactly, cut open in front, and bound all round with white satin ribbon and a row of beads, linked together in front with bands of beads loosely suspended at distances; short sleeves the same. Fan richly spangled. Pearl necklace, with diamond clasp in front; ear-rings and bracelets to suit. White shoes striped in scarlet or blue. Hair in ringlets on the forehead, and lightly turned up behind with a diamond comb. Petticoats very short.

 

PLATE 24. – WALKING DRESS.

            Dress of white Scotia washing silk. Bishop’s mantle of sage or olive-green striped and plain silks, made entirely without seams; border of the same colour. Hat to correspond, and decorated with artificial flowers. Shoes sage or olive green, also to correspond.

GENERAL OBSERVATION.

Spanish hats, which have been worn all the winter. With feathers, for full dress, are now converted into walking hats, substituting flowers instead of feathers. Straw hats and bonnets, ornamented with flowers, and white silk hats, are making their appearance for the season. Light silk mantles, of all colours, are much worn. Spencers, of a beautiful grey, ornamented with silver, not buttoned, but tied loosely at the neck, form a most elegant dress. The Scotia silk, introduced in the last number, is now in great request for dresses, as is also spotted muslin. Colours vary with the taste of the individual; silver grey is unquestionably the most elegant and most fashionable. The attempt to introduce waists has completely failed; they have not, nor will they ever become fashionable. The full dress of this number is the present standard.

I happened to be in a family party of ladies on the evening of the publication of last month’s Repository:  the moment it was introduced. The dresses became the subject of critical animadversion, and the essay attached to them under the title “General Observation,” was read aloud for the entertainment of the company. Various (as many be suppose) were the comments of the fair hearers. I was pleased to find that scarlet was given up to its fate without a pang: the colour, however, was out of fashion and out of season, so that I could not congratulate myself much on the victory. Green, on the contrary, found its admirers and supporters. Green! Cool, lovely, refreshing green! – Green, the universal livery of nature!  These and similar exclamations from the lovely lips of accomplished beauty, made me almost waver in my opinion, and tempted me to recal the anathema pronounced against it. This was not all.

The passage soon occurred in which the writer looks forward to the time when the “dress of the British fair shall be established on the simple and unerring principles of nature.” -  Here the lovely reader made a sudden pause. – “Principles of nature,” she repeated (as if to ascertain whether she had read the author aright), and at the same instant the “principles of nature” was echoed through the room, accompanied by all marks of confused apprehension.  The whole of the passage was repeated – still nothing could be made of it. At length a maiden lady, with a prudish gravity of aspect and contemptuous elevation of nose, observed that, in her opinion, it was mere impudence. – “Nature indeed!” said she. “It would make the ghosts of our grandmothers blush, could they see how much of nature is already exposed – and has this fellow the assurance to which to which for more? For my own part, I was not without the hope of seeing the modish innovation of the present day set aside, and the hoop petticoat, with all its modest and becoming appendages, again introduced into the circles of fashion:- but if this fellow be permitted to go on – really I have not patience to think of it – I will write myself to the Bishop of London, or to the Society for the Suppression of Vice and get a stop to his impudence.

All this, and much more, was I, in my character of incognito, compelled to listen to; and now I again make my appearance, to defend myself from dreadful a charge. I only entreat to be heard out, and I promise that even the fastidious delicacy of “Cælebs” (who is now become the fashionable monitor) shall find nothing to object to in all that has been advanced.

It has been the aim of all nations to convert those garments which the climate renders necessary, into something decorative and ornamental; and as long as the decorations are kept in subordination to the object decorated, they will be in good taste, but no longer; the moment dress become principal, all beauty and consistency is lost. That dress, then, which displays as much of the form as is required by grace, without infringing the laws of modesty – which shall leave the limbs to act with the greatest ease to the wearer, and the most agreeable effect on the eye of the beholder, and admit only such ornaments as will add to, rather than diminish the beauty of the face and figure, may, in strict propriety, be said to be composed upon the principles of nature.

But my limits will not admit of enlarging at present on the idea. I will resume the subject next month, and will endeavour then to lay down some general rules for the adaptation of the colours introduced in dress to the various characters and complexions of the lovely wearers.

AREIETER ELEGANTIARUM.

GENTLEMEN’S FASHION.

            Under this head we have no other alteration to record in the present month, except that leather breeches, of a very deep colour, approaching to brown, and boot, are much worn by gentlemen. It will be recollected, that, in our number for March, we announced the probability of such a change.

Ackermann's Fashion Week ~ Monday - March 1809

Today I’m starting Fashion Week, I’ll be showcasing Fashion Plates from Ackermann’s Repository. Today’s post is from March 1809 edition.

FASHION FOR LADIES AND GENTLEMEN

PLATE 10. – LADIES WALKING DRESS

A Polish cap, and pelisse of silver grey cloth, trimmed with gold or silver, buttoned down the front with small round buttons, a high collar with a lace ruff; boots of the same colour as the pelisse, and both embroidered with gold or silver. York tan gloves.

This dress was transmitted to a lady of high rank from Warsaw, and would alone evince the taste and elegance of ladies of that country, were they not already sufficiently known.

PLATE 11. – OPERA DRESS

Henry the Eight hat of purple velvet trimmed with pearls, a dress of the same colour, with a white satin front with large white round pearls; a white satin Spanish mantle trimmed with swandown; white shoes and gloves, pearl ear-rings and necklace, white and silver fans.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS

The prevailing colours this month, are rose, green, and purple of various materials, silk, satins, and plain velvets, ornamented with gold and silver, pearls, or embroidery. Satin caps and hats, with short white feathers are generally worn. Small morning or walking hats, trimmed with silk frivolity, are an entire new and very elegant article. Mantles and pelisses of various forms are still much worn for morning dresses. White is again become the favourite colour, and great variety is displayed in the materials and form. Flowers are now beginning to appear again in morning and evening caps. The most fashionable style of wearing the hair the hair is in ringlets á la Ninon; the shoes are embroidered in gold or silver for dress, and for undress in silk, chenille, or ribbon.

We have the pleasure to inform our fair readers, that the fashions for the present month have been again furnished by Madame Lanchester, whose taste and elegance stand so high in the estimation of the fashionable world.

FASHIONS FOR GENTLEMEN

Evening Dress.

The reigning colours for this month are claret and corbean, with plain, flat, silk buttons; the coat rather long in the waist, and short in the skirts, double-breasted, with lapels, high collar, thin padding, and to fall back full three inches; the pockets under the cross flaps cuffs five inches and a half long, with three buttons at top.

            Waistcoats are made of white Marseilles and fancy silks, single-breasted, with narrow flaps, rather long. Breeches of drab silk hose, not made very high; the knee-band low, with four or five buttons at the knee. They are made rather tight.

Morning Dress

            The coats worn for morning dress are generally of dark colours and sage mixed, single-breasted, with short regimental skirts, no flaps, pockets in the plaits of the skirts, high collars, stitched narrow, and to fall back about three inches. Buttons either gilt, or silver basket, or moulds covered with cloth.

            Waistcoats double-breasted, made of silk striped Valentia.

            Is consequence of the excessive advance in the price of superfine cloths and kerseymeres, the leaders of the haut ton have resolved to revive the fashion of wearing leather breeches and boots, which some years since so particularly distinguished English gentlemen from mechanics and servents.

            The preceding observation were communicated to us by Messrs. Austey and Saxe, South Molton-street.