Ackermann’s Fashion Month ~ Sunday – March 1810

Today’s post comes from the March 1810 edition of Ackermann’s Repository of Arts.

FASHION FOR LADIES

PLATE 17. – BALL DRESS

            A plain slip of white gossamer satin, with short sleeves and square bosom. A Circassian robe of brown silk net, the meshes terminated with white or gold beads; edging and tassels of the same. Head-dress, á la Diana, of pearl; necklace, armlets, &c. &c. of the same. Slippers of white satin, with gold clasps and bindings. French kid gloves below the elbow. Fan of white crape, with gold Persian border.

PLATE 18. – MORNING COSTUME

            A morning robe of spotted of flowered Moravian muslin, with high-winged collar, edged with scalloped lace. Bosom formed of alternate stripes of lace and muslin.  A matron hood of lace, tied across the crown with grey ribbon. Morning slippers of grey kid, trimmed with swandown. An occasional scarf of French silk, with rich flowered border and ends.

Ackermann's Fashion Month ~ Saturday - February 1810

I'm running a tad late today. The Fashion for Ladies and gentlemen come from the February 1810 edition of Ackermann's Repository of Arts.

FASHION FOR LADIES AND GENTLEMEN

PLATE 10. – EVENING OR FULL DRESS

A purple velvet round robe, with demi-traine and long sleeves; bordered round the bottom; bosom and wrists with narrow gold lace. A Spanish hat, composed of purple silk or velvet, the same as the robe, looped up the front with brilliants, and ornamented with curled ostrich feathers. A capuchin cloak of white satin, trimmed entirely round with full swandown. Diamond chain and cross; drop ear-rings and bracelets of the same; gold chain and opera glass. Grecian slippers of white satin, trimmed with silver.

PLATE 11. – OPERA DRESS

            A round robe of white or coloured crape, imperial net, or muslin, with white satin bodice, trimmed with gold or silver, or a border of small flowers. A wrapping mantle of fawn-coloured satin, trimmed entirely round with swandown. Necklace, ear-rings, and bracelets of pearl. Hair in dishevelled curls, confined with diamond comb, and ornamented with Persian wreath of blended pearl and amethysts. – Slippers of fawn-coloured satin, with silver clasps. Opera fan of carved amber.

FASHION FOR GENTLEMEN

Great-coats. – Great-coats are in general worn of olive, olive brown, dark bottle green superfine cloth, or superfine Bath coating; single breasted, with three or four straps in front; cross-flaps, and the pockets outside, under the latter; a small flap in the plaits, pointed with three buttons; round cuffs; the collar to come up high in the neck and padded; the fall-down collar only an inch and a half deep. The waist is worn long, three inches below the hip-bone, and the skirts must reach to the bottom of the calf.

The leaders of the haut ton appear at the Opera in great-coats edged with Russia lamb-skin, with cuffs, collar, and lappels of the same, and loops in front; made after the Polish fashion, and lined throughout with silk serge.

Morning-coats. – The most fashionable colours for morning-coats are olive, or olive brown, and blue. Like the preceding, they are long-waisted, but must not be longer than two or three inches above the knee, according to the size of the wearer. The lappels come down very low, that is to say, to the hip-button; pockets outside, under the cross-flaps; small (or habit size) plain gilt buttons; five holes in the lappels to button all the way up; French riding sleeves, with three large buttons; the collar to come up high; the fall-down an inch and a quarter deep, according to the height of the collar.

Waistcoats. – The prevailing colours for waistcoats are white, India rib patent green print, buff, with blue or black stripes, wide asunder. They are bound with black or blue silk galloon, double-breasted, with five or six holes, according to the length, to button all the way up.

Pantaloons. – are of blue or drab-coloured stockings, figured. For the breeches, drab colours are in the highest request; they are made to come down low under the knee.

Ackermann's Fashion Month ~ Friday - January 1810

Welcome to today’s Ackermann’s Fashion Plates, January 1810.

FASHION FOR LADIES

PLATE 4. - EVENING DRESS

            An Albanian robe of Sicilian blue velvet, crape, or poplin, with long sleeves, ornamented up the front with silver buttons, of the large pea form, embellished on each side, and round the bottom, with silver Vandyke border; bosom and cuffs to correspond. When this robe is formed of crape, or any light material, it must unquestionably be worn over a white satin or saranet slip. A Persian helmet cap of white satin, or silver-frosted velvet, turned up in front and on one side, where it is ornamented with a Tuscan border of silver; on the other, is placed a curled ostrich feather. The necklace and ear-rings worn with this attractive costume, must either consist of diamonds, pearls, or gold: any coloured gem would immediately vulgarise and destroy its original and chaste effect. The slipper is here represented of the same colour as the robe, and is trimmed with silver: we think, however, that those of white satin or kid are to be preferred.

CHILD’S DRESS

            A Circassian frock of Italian crape, or Indian muslin, with slippers of pink satin or kid, with silver clasps.

PLATE 5. – CARRIAGE OR PROMENADE COSTUME.

            A round cottage gown of fine cambric or jaconot muslin, ornamented at the feet, collar, and wrists with borders of needle-work, or fine fringe. The waist confined at the bottom with a white ribbon, tied in short bows and ends behind. A French watch, chain and seals, in front of figure. A Russian mantle of bright crimson velvet, lined throughout with the spotted American squirrel skin, with broad facings and high collar of the same. The mantle clasped in front of the throat with silver, gold, or steel. The hat worn generally with this attractive mantle, is of the Spanish order, with variegated feather resembling the fur, pendant towards one side. We here, however, give the Siberian cap, composed of the same material, and trimmed with skin, the same as ornaments the mantle, and as selected by the elegant and distinguished female to whom we are indebted for this specimen of superior taste. The boots, it will be seen, are of crimson velvet, laced with gold cord. This mantle and cap are exceedingly elegant, when composed of emeraldgreen velvet, trimmed with leopard skin. It is furnished by Miss Millman, of Half-Moon-street, Piccadilly. 

Ackermann's Fashion Month ~ Thursday - December 1809

Today we look at the last month of 1809.

FASHION FOR LADIES

PLATE 37. – A TYROLESE WALKING DRESS

            A fine cambric or jaconot muslin round robe, with long plaited sleeves, and worked antique front; bordered at the feet with needle-work or appliquéd lace. Elastic belt, confined behind with a bow and ends of ribbon. A plain shirt, with high collar, sitting close to the throat, and trimmed at the extreme edge with a plaiting of French net. A rosary and cross of blended gold and amber. A Tyrolese coat of shaded green, or drake’s-neck velvet, lined throughout with amber sarsnet, and trimmed with gold or Chinese floss binding. The Amazonian helmet, composed of the same materials, ornamented with a patriotic band and bow, towards one side; a curled ostrich feather, tipped with gold, on the other. Slippers of amber velvet, with black binding and rosettes. Gloves of York tan.

PLATE 38. – EVENING DRESS

            A white satin round robe, with demi-traine. A short sleeve of interjoined lace and gold beading. A military front, composed of gold cord and frogs. A pelerine of white satin, with full collar, and border of swandown, and a rich cord and tassel of gold. A Grecian coif of white satin, with appliquéd border of lace, and band and crecent of pearl. A long sleeve, of French lace; or a glove, of French kid; with bracelets and necklace of pearl. Crimson slippers, with gold imperial trimming. Ivory fan, mount of crimson crape, ornamented with a border of gold jessamine.

Ackermann's Fashion Month ~ Wednesday - November 1809

Today we are looking at the Fashion Plates from November 1809

FASHION FOR LADIES

PLATE 30. – MORNING DRESS

            A high morning robe of fine jaconot, or cambric muslin, buttoned from the throat to the feet; high fluted collar, edged with lace, and clasped in the center with a topaz, or other gem. A Chinese girdle and tassel confines the bottom of the waist, and is tied in the front, so as to reach a little below the knee. A loose morning robe, or pelisse, of white muslin, green shawl print, or jubilee sarsnet, trimmed entirely round with a correspondent border. Silver filigree bracelets, with topaz studs. A matron mob, or cap of point lace. Ornamented with shaded yellow, or lemon-coloured ribbon. Gloves and slippers of lemon-coloured kid. – Infant’s robe, of yellow muslin, over a fine soft cambric skirt.

PLATE 31. – MORNING WALKING DRESS

            A petticoat and Roman tunic of fine thin cambric, long sleeves, and high collar, interjoined and trimmed with lace; the tunic finished at the bottom with a border of fret-work. A jubilee cloak of bright amber velvet, or shaded gold-coloured sarsnet, trimmed entirely round with swandown, and confined at the center of the throat with a rich cord and tassels of blended silk and gold. The cottager’s hat, of imperial-coloured straw, tied simply under the chin with a white ribbon. Parasol, gloves, and shoes, of correspondent shades with the hat.

Ackermann's Fashion Month ~ Tuesday - October 1809

Today sees us visiting October 1809 Ackeremann’s Fashion Plates.

FASHION FOR LADIES

PLATE 24. – A BALL DRESS

A LIGHT blue, or grey chemise robe, of gossamer net, imperial crape, or Spanish gauze, worn over white pearling satin, ornamented up the front with French bows and knots of silver. A full melon sleeve, formed of the same material as the dress, and alternate stripes of white satin; finished with bows and knots of silver. A double roll of white satin round the neck of the robe, by way of tucker. Hair falling in natural and irregular curls on the forehead; confined in a bow and curled ends, or in plaited braids, at the back of the head, with a diamond comb. Diamond bandeau, with necklace, armlets, and drop ear-rings of the same. Slippers of white satin with silver clasps. French kis gloves, just escaping the elbow. Fan of carved ivory.

PLATE 25. – WALKING DRESS

             A fine cambric or Indian muslin high gown, with long sleeves and falling collar, ornamented at the feet, and round the neck, with appliquéd lace or needle-work. Deep amber broach, or gold filigree buckle, confining the dress at the throat and waist, with bracelets en suite. Gold chain and opera glass. The woodland hat of fine plaited straw or chip, with ostrich feather falling on one side. A French cloak of bright purple sarsnet or velvet, lined with amber or rose colour, and trimmed entirely round with broad black lace and beading. Purple parasol, with deep white or amber awning. Shoes and gloves of buff kid.

N.B. There is no change in gentlemen’s dresses since our last.

Ackermann's Fashion Month ~ Monday - September 1809

Welcome to a new week of Ackermann’s Fashion Plates. Today we look into the September 1809 edition of the Repository.

FASHION FOR LADIES AND GENTLEMEN

PLATE 17. A MOURNING DRESS

            As many of our discerning and tasteful correspondents have hinted to us the utility of occasionally presenting them with a mourning, we take advantage of the present period to comply with their wishes. Fashion and novelty seem at this moment to require from their votaries a cessation from their general labours, and individual taste and invention are left to spot as pleasure in that elegant simplicity of attire which at this season takes place. Of the splendid decoration which distinguishes the more brilliant parties of the metropolis.

            Our plate will be found to represent a lady and her infant in slight mourning habits: the former composed of black gossamer net, or imperial gauze, worn over a white satin slip. A demi-traine. A round frock in front, and short French sleeves, each edged with a rich Vandyke lace. A cestus of white satin, edged with gold bullion, finished in front with a rich cord and cone tassels, suspended from topaz studs. Pearl necklace and bracelets, with topaz snaps. Hair in the eastern style, with Spartan diadem, and comb to topaz or gold. A Cireassian scarf of grey Spanish silk, with a Tuscan border in black embroidery, a tassel to correspond; confined on one shoulder with a topaz broach. Shoes of grey satin, with clasps of jet, or rosettes of black bugles. White gloves of French kid; and fan of black crape, with gold spangled device.

            In deep mourning, this robe should be formed of black crape, and worn over black sarsnet. The ornaments and trimmings of every description must be of bugles or jet. The shoes of queen’s silk. The scarf, black crape or imperial silk, spotted and bordered with bugles. Jet tassels and broach.

            The child’s dress is a simple frock of black crape muslin, tucked small, and worn over a cambric skirt. A plain net-lace tucker, and cap en suite. Grey kid slippers, with black claps.

PLATE 18. – PROMENADE SEA-BEACH COSTUME.

            A Gresian frock of fine French cambric or jaconot muslin, with correspondent border at the feet, in shades purple embroidery; Roman back and front of the same. Full long sleeves, with turned-up cuff of lace; fastened with bronze stud, set in gold. A Flemish bonnet, of fine plaited or variegated straw, tied under the chin with purple corded ribbon. An ostrich feather, tipped with purple, falling on the left side. A rich habit-shirt, formed of fine India muslin (or net) and lace. A marine scarf, ot purple Spanish silk, with rich ends, and border of happily contrasted shades, thrown over the figure in true Grecian elegance. Chinese parasol, of purple silk, with deep white awning. Shoes and gloves of lemon-coloured kid.

FASHION FOR GENTLEMEN

Morning or Walking Dress

            Dark blue and hare-back mixture are the fashionable colours of the day. Long waists still keep their ground: lapels long in proportion, with only four, or, at the utmost, five, large gilt buttons: short skirt – collar high, to stand off – low in front – sleeves long – flap with three buttons, and the same number in the plaits. Silk-striped quilting, or Marcella double-breasted waist-coat. Drab-coloured kerseymere breeches. Stocking pantaloons and half-boots. Nankeen trowers and gaiters, or kerseymere pantaloons and gaiters in one.