Monday, November 10, 2014

Ackermann's Fashion Month ~ Monday - September 1809

Welcome to a new week of Ackermann’s Fashion Plates. Today we look into the September 1809 edition of the Repository.

FASHION FOR LADIES AND GENTLEMEN

PLATE 17. A MOURNING DRESS

            As many of our discerning and tasteful correspondents have hinted to us the utility of occasionally presenting them with a mourning, we take advantage of the present period to comply with their wishes. Fashion and novelty seem at this moment to require from their votaries a cessation from their general labours, and individual taste and invention are left to spot as pleasure in that elegant simplicity of attire which at this season takes place. Of the splendid decoration which distinguishes the more brilliant parties of the metropolis.

            Our plate will be found to represent a lady and her infant in slight mourning habits: the former composed of black gossamer net, or imperial gauze, worn over a white satin slip. A demi-traine. A round frock in front, and short French sleeves, each edged with a rich Vandyke lace. A cestus of white satin, edged with gold bullion, finished in front with a rich cord and cone tassels, suspended from topaz studs. Pearl necklace and bracelets, with topaz snaps. Hair in the eastern style, with Spartan diadem, and comb to topaz or gold. A Cireassian scarf of grey Spanish silk, with a Tuscan border in black embroidery, a tassel to correspond; confined on one shoulder with a topaz broach. Shoes of grey satin, with clasps of jet, or rosettes of black bugles. White gloves of French kid; and fan of black crape, with gold spangled device.

            In deep mourning, this robe should be formed of black crape, and worn over black sarsnet. The ornaments and trimmings of every description must be of bugles or jet. The shoes of queen’s silk. The scarf, black crape or imperial silk, spotted and bordered with bugles. Jet tassels and broach.

            The child’s dress is a simple frock of black crape muslin, tucked small, and worn over a cambric skirt. A plain net-lace tucker, and cap en suite. Grey kid slippers, with black claps.



PLATE 18. – PROMENADE SEA-BEACH COSTUME.

            A Gresian frock of fine French cambric or jaconot muslin, with correspondent border at the feet, in shades purple embroidery; Roman back and front of the same. Full long sleeves, with turned-up cuff of lace; fastened with bronze stud, set in gold. A Flemish bonnet, of fine plaited or variegated straw, tied under the chin with purple corded ribbon. An ostrich feather, tipped with purple, falling on the left side. A rich habit-shirt, formed of fine India muslin (or net) and lace. A marine scarf, ot purple Spanish silk, with rich ends, and border of happily contrasted shades, thrown over the figure in true Grecian elegance. Chinese parasol, of purple silk, with deep white awning. Shoes and gloves of lemon-coloured kid.




FASHION FOR GENTLEMEN
Morning or Walking Dress

            Dark blue and hare-back mixture are the fashionable colours of the day. Long waists still keep their ground: lapels long in proportion, with only four, or, at the utmost, five, large gilt buttons: short skirt – collar high, to stand off – low in front – sleeves long – flap with three buttons, and the same number in the plaits. Silk-striped quilting, or Marcella double-breasted waist-coat. Drab-coloured kerseymere breeches. Stocking pantaloons and half-boots. Nankeen trowers and gaiters, or kerseymere pantaloons and gaiters in one.



  
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